Friday, February 10, 2012

3 rd and Oak in Empty Pecos, Texas

Outside of the coastal cities and Chicago, America is a New Yorker magazine joke. Man goes into C & T Donuts on Cedar street at dawn in Pecos and asks the woman behind the glazed donuts (Cherinell) if there is wifi. This is a "man's world" - pick-ups, semi's, and flat beds. At Flying J's, men are in overalls and one, who walked in front of me and at first I thought was a man, wasn't. It's like the Detroit I remember from five years ago with entire blocks bulldozed except for one occupied townhouse. Here in Pecos the deserted buildings are boarded up. Both places have no place to find a copier machine after 7 pm.
No one goes beyond the horizon. Texas IS like Last Picture Store. The waitress, Cherinell, with pigtails at Denny's was born in Hobbs, NM, has no children, husband of ten years who is recovering from an operation. I thought she had abandoned me after I asked if she was married but she came back.  Forever the fool, I told her how beautiful I felt she looked but that there was a sadness and she smiled and said she was happy. Never assume. She told me she almost had a master's in agricultural biology but quit the field because of the high degree of responsiblity.
I asked my friend Jon Schwartz to recommend a restaurant in El Paso where he co-wrote a screenplay 20 years ago and he suggested Casa Jurado on Doniphen dr. and told me to speak with the owner, David, if I had questions about E P. David wasn't there but I had chicken mole, the house specialty which greatly enjoyed.

I liked also the bathroom which reminded me of places I had frequented in lower Mexico.

Few I have met on this trip move beyond their horizon. The man that sold me the full boy scout uniform including cap told me he hadn't been in Mexico in 15 years, yet can see Juarez across the Rio Grande from his porch.

I'm not cheap...I'm more like Tom Waits' lyrics. I take myself out BUT I refuse to spend $60 at motel 6 in Pecos, Tx. So I slept in my truck for six hours, stopping to step outside my front door to pee, every few hours.

Just outside Pecos.

along highway 652 north

in the men's bathroom of the place above

where I pulled over and made late lunch of Trader Joe's turkey, soft cheese and bread.

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